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5 comments:
You think you go to the high normal? It is not red? They do not experience problems with the heat? If that what we see, if you have a very sensitive (susceptible) have R-gauge-sending device that has nothing to fear. If it just started then I suggest not to overlook the water pump, no fan. Check the fan when the vehicle has reached normal operating temperature, it is certain that the air passing through the front of the radiator with a piece of paper to see if they take place against the front of the condenser when it basket, with exit to see if it even still .. If your water pump and coolant tank is visible below to reach the normal operating temperature to see the movement of the coolant when the thermostat opens and allows the flow of coolant when the pump is working properly.
Hope this helps and have a great weekend.
Replace the temperature sensor is something that should be cheap and easy to do. If the problem persists, then it is almost certain that a head gasket, block cracked or broken head. The last two are unlikely but possible. You need the cylinder test pressure, a rather cheap. If the radiator was bad, even if there is something loose inside which is blocked by intermittent liquid cooling, the effect would be more sustainable. His problem is closer to the sensor. When the head is cracked, you have to decide whether to repair, sell or distribute, or until it dies. I have K & W block sealer with some success in the vehicles is not worth the cost of repairing the engine. It is at best temporary.
Do not worry. I eighty-one guard, a piece of shit. Just feel lucky. N Air Condit. or hot water sounds like a Sherman tank, I'm pretty sure it's legal!
It's more like a temperature sending the defective unit.
SOUNDS LIKE in the air-cooling is a clutch fan
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